CategoryScott’s POV

Summer Inspiration

It's Summer and all I can think about is indigo. Variation, shade, color, and caste—it's all around me! We're in the process of putting our finishing touches on Women's S/S '15, so here are a few of my inspirations for this month. -Scott     Fuller Leg Jeans I'm feeling fuller leg jeans for guys. You heard it here first.   Indigo Dyed Ropes Courtesy of Rowland and Chinami Ricketts.   Boro Textiles Boro textiles are usually hand sewn from nineteenth and early twentieth century indigo dyed rags, patches, and textiles. I've been collecting boro blankets for the past 15 years, and I absolutely love their handmade one-of-a-kind beauty. The Boro pant above, by Kapital, is one of the first I've seen from a brand. At 3x1, we made a pair of mini-jeans out of some boro cloth I found during my last trip to Japan. It was presented to one of our favorite customers as a 'thank you.'     Vat of Indigo This is vat of indigo photo is from Rowland and Chinami Ricketts, whom hand weave and dye some of the most beautiful textiles in the world.   Kate Moss Ms. Moss in a pair of Superfine's. I'm not sure how old this photo is, but my first brand Paper Denim & Cloth was first to exclusively use the 2-piece contour waistband, and I'm still a believer fifteen years later. This is a great example of how a jean should fit. No gapping, on her hips, made to flatter. We use a contour waistband on all our 3x1 women's jeans...what a difference it makes. See for yourself. ... Read more

A/W 14 Lookbook

It's not everyday you shoot a lookbook, and for us at 3x1, today was our first. There will be more to come over the next days and weeks, but here's a little glimpse of a couple behind the scenes images ... Thanks to the gorgeous Zuzana B, Next Model Management, Jean-Francois Campos and team, as well as our favorite friends from Jean Stories, Jane and Florence. Check back in soon! - S.M.       ... Read more

May Inspiration

The whole 3x1 team is constantly archiving eye-catching inspiration found online, during our travels, and from customers. So much of what we see and encounter directly impacts our design process and final touches on the collections. At the beginning of each month right here on the blog, I'll be showcasing some of my favorite found images and objects. I hope my picks inspire you as we cruise into spring! Selvedge Denim Shuttle Loom in Japan This is how the good stuff gets made. A great picture of a shuttle loom in operation. Always fun to see, and a great reminder that we've sold more than 400 different denims sinc we started just three short years ago.   Pierre Soulages Painting The only thing I see here is pure indigo. Blue is my favorite color and the shades and depths of this piece remind me why I love denim so much. Lightning Arrow Strength, decay, and perfectly symbolizes our S/S15 Collection and I've had a photo of this with me when I was spending my time out in LA at our laundry.   Porsche P/904 Carrera This car is a modern day reference to the past. Carrying forward the 1960's lineage, its incredible lines and the most amazing color of blue I've ever seen on a car. There's so much beauty in the past if you're willing to look. Vintage Jeans This photo is a reminder of how amazing women look in well worn, broken-in, 100% cotton jeans.   Ellsworth Kelly Painting This is one of my all-time favorites. For some reason, it always reminds me to 'look in,' as if it's a window into something. Anyway, I love it. ... Read more

Just Doing It

We're pretty fortunate here at 3x1 to have a lot of amazing friends and clients, and most I'd have to presume are great at what they do. That being said, every once in a while someone special comes through our door and it's hard to think of two guys who epitomize that more than Mark Parker and John Hoke (shown with me in this photo). Some might say it's their proven track record (sorry, couldn't resist), or their knowledge and vision in the footwear and sportswear industry, that makes Mark and John so special. After getting to know them over the past couple years, I can't help but feel that it's only part of their success story.     Last month, we had the pleasure of hosting a 30 person delegation from Nike, which included top design heads from Nike, Hurley, and Converse, who were cool enough to come in for a pair of Custom Made 3x1's and a little 'Denim 101'. We talked about jeans, manufacturing, vertical integration, and craftsmanship. We shared a few of our success stories, and also many stories of the challenges we've had to overcome along the way. Most of our little company was on hand to help, and not only were we flattered to entertain one of the greatest brands in the world, but we were thrilled to learn that everyone attending loved denim just as much as we do. It's not every day that people recognize you for your ideas and your unseen efforts. When it does happen, no matter where it comes from, it feels pretty good. Coming from John, Mark, and the team at Nike, it's feels even better. I've started to learn from these two titans of industry that leadership is about inspiring those around you to find greatness, rewarding different thinking, and looking for ideas and solutions outside of your everyday.   As we can all attest, it's not every day you meet someone who's an inspiration. And it's not every day you meet people whose biggest success is in making those around them better.   Thank you Mark and John for doing just that. Just doing it - 3x1. ... Read more

Selection Saturday

It's 'Selection Saturday' here at 15 Mercer Street.  Saturday's at the office are probably something most people do from time to time, but in the world of denim, there's no Saturday quite like the Saturday before you launch your next collection.  Thankfully, most of my work has been done, aside from waiting for FedEx to deliver the last of our samples between the hours of 7-10am, so I'm spending most of my morning thinking about ... you guessed it ... next season.     On my desk this morning, is an assortment of 120+ denims I'm reviewing for the upcoming season.  Included are a number of my favorite mills: Collect, Kurabo, Kaihara, Nihon Menpu, Kuroki, Cone, Isko, etc. and these are my initial selections and the best of everything I've seen in the past 90 days.  This is certainly a fun part of my job, but it's sometimes a bit overwhelming as I've got to determine what is best for both the denim wall, and for our men's and women's wholesale collections.  Sometimes there's overlap, but most often, due to price constraints or a need for versatility in our wholesale collections, it's one or the other.  When it comes to the denim wall, I'm looking for newness, but they have to have one of four key attributes: authenticity, uniqueness, innovation, or special process.  If the denim doesn't tick one of those boxes, you're not going to see it being used by us.     I then try to balance those attributes by thinking about seasonal weight, color, caste and shade, process, yarn, dye technique, etc. as well as what's happening within our shop. For example, if we've been seeing customers ask for softer denims or novelty denims with colored weft yarns, I'll try to either find denim or develop denim around their needs.  When it comes to designing our wholesale collections we're thinking about a broader audience.  Maybe it's our customer in San Francisco, Chicago, or Miami. We ask ourselves, what are their needs, and how can we best design a 3x1 jean around their lifestyle?   Next stop - brunch!   ... Read more

Laundry Lesson

It was 1999, I was 27 years old, and I took a couple flights from NYC to Evansville, Indiana, and then drove 30 minutes into the tiny town of Henderson, Kentucky.  I remember counting the number of states I'd entered in order to get there (4), and I'll never forget turning the corner and driving down Main Street to arrive at my final destination: Sights Denim Systems.  It was there that I had my first 'laundry' experience, and for a young guy who's learning his way around the denim industry, it was like going to MIT or Stanford right out of Elementary School.   Sights Denim was simply the most incredible laundry in the world at the time, perhaps rivaled only by Martelli SPA in Italy.  This was the place where the the best of the best in the denim world came to develop new ideas, new collections, test fabrics, chemicals and processes.  This was an innovation lab, and although I was just getting a taste of it, it showed me a glimpse of what was possible.  It was that first visit to 'the laundry' which gave me the confidence to think that I might be able to start something of my own, and as any jean designer will tell you, a good laundry is a true game changer.  Six months later I started my first brand, and I have to say that from the launch of Paper Denim & Cloth that year, through the first 5 years of Earnest Sewn, and from the inception of 3x1, I've been blessed to work with only the best.      As I'm sure most people know, the laundry (which is really a two part process of Dry Abrasion and Wet Processing) is probably the most critical element to how your jean is going to look and feel.  Obviously it starts with the denim, but a lot can be done to tell the story of your new favorite pair, and much of that story is created there. Dry Abrasion is all about hand sanding, grinding, whiskering, chevrons, starbursts, keys and knees.  It's where all the simulated character gets fully imagined and hand applied.  From there your jean is moved into Wet Processing which includes any number of steps and processes: stone-washing, enzyme washing, bleaching, resin applications, oven baking, etc. and the combined outcome, when done well, is incredible.  Starting from a raw jean and making it look like a well-worn vintage garment, all in less than 24 hours ... it's pretty amazing to see, and as a designer, it's even more amazing to have that opportunity to experiment, develop and refine.     Get ready - more great washes coming soon at 3x1!         Photo:  Scott sitting in a 1200 lb. machine at U.S. Garment, which can wet-process up to 300 jeans at a time.                                                 ... Read more

Thank you!

2013 was quite a year for 3x1.  This was our third year in business, and we expanded our team, our collections, and our production facilities.  This year was about growing, and in many ways, slowly but surely, we’ve started growing up as a brand and as a business. It goes without saying, that we couldn't have done any of this without you, our customer.  Whether you're a denim aficionado, a bespoke client, an old friend of the brand, or new client to the shop; it’s your continued loyalty and support that has made all the difference once again.  On behalf of everyone at 3x1, please let me THANK YOU for an amazing 2013.   What can you expect from us in 2014?  Excitement for one.  We'll continue to keep you on your toes with the most innovative, authentic, and original selvedge denims in the world.  And we’ll keep adding new mills to our supplier list, and fabrics to our archive.  We’ll continue to showcase the world’s best in class sewing and garment construction, as well as focus on customer service and refining our process.  We’ll expand our presence, albeit ever so slightly, in new markets like Japan, Europe and Canada.  We’ll continue to grow our e-commerce store to make it easier for you, our valued customer, to find newness each and every month.    So, thank you again for all the support!  We can’t wait to see you next year!  Please come say hello again soon – we’ll be looking forward to seeing you!   To a Happy and Healthy 2014! Scott Morrison Founder, 3x1 ... Read more

Henry Cuir | Scott’s Wallet of Choice

It was my second trip to Japan in the summer of 2002, and I was working my way through the streets of Tokyo, only to find this incredible leather goods shop in Ayoma called 'Henry Cuir'.  I bought a wallet and a weekend bag, and for many years thereafter I would return to buy a new wallet, or key chain. I even once purchased a small child's belt that I asked them to turn into a collar for my dog, Kurabo.  Six months ago, I was reconnected with Henry Cuir, and sat down for an afternoon to buy 24 pieces of special edition luggage and accessories. Each piece is made to order by hand, in Italy by Henri and his team of craftsmen.  Their leather is simply amazing and it ages beautifully.  For the handmade pieces we carry here at 3x1, we chose to use denim thread colors: gold, dark red, orange, and indigo wherever possible.  We also selected indigo colored linen linings for the bags, and if you're at all like me, you'll find the leather bowls simply incredible ... and I couldn't resist another wallet. -Scott ... Read more

Treviso Travels

Scott recently returned from an amazing trip to Italy. Vacation? Clearly you don't know Scott. His jam-packed 3 day trip was with ISKO, the world's largest producer of denim fabric. Scott flew into Rome, took a terrifying four hour car ride to San Benedetto del Tronto, and arrived at Iskoteca, ISKO's research and development division. Scott was definitely wowed and inspired by their new fabrics, finishes, and washes. His next stop was Vincenza to see ISKO's Creative Room, a design studio that serves as their main point of inspiration. The Creative Room also has an impressive archive of both vintage and back-dated ISKO-made products (AKA Denim-Head Heaven).  The main event was held in Treviso and gathered some of the biggest names in denim to discuss creativity and inspiration in the industry. The event took place in the ultra chic Castelle San Salvatore, an absolutely stunning castle in Northeastern Italy. There was a round table discussion with Adriano Goldschmied (founder of the Genius Group, founder of AG Adriano Goldschmied and Goldsign), Elio Fiorucci (founder of Fiorucci and Love Therapy), Katharine Hamnett (Katharine Hamnett CBE, Fashion designer and campaigner, former designer for and member of Genius Group),  Vladimiro Baldin (Product development and style coordination DIESEL),  Raffaello Napoleone (CEO Pitti)  Philippe Pasquet (CEO Première Vision), and of course, our very own Scott Morrison. The event wrapped up with a fabulous party and fireworks to cap off the night. Want to see ISKO fabrics in action? Check out our new women's collection!  ... Read more