CategoryThe Purist

XX489 from Collect

Searching for the best cotton in all of America? Look no further because Memphis, Tennessee has got you covered. The ideal temperature, humidty, and soil type are just a few factors contributing to the damn near perfect cotton-growing conditions in Memphis. It should come as no surprise that xx489, one of our newest and favorite 14.5 oz denims, is made with this special Memphis cotton. In our last denim feature we discussed xx485, which is made from another staff favorite, Zimbabwe cotton. In comparing the two, you will find that xx489 has a more startchy hand with a more uniform saturation, yet enough tiny slubs to make each jean truly a one-of-a-kind. Given the weight and relatively startchy hand of this fabric, the jeans will start out stiff but surely develop some of the most unique fades over time.   xx489 is now available for creating jeans at both Custom and Bespoke levels. Click here to book an appointment. Looking for a ready-to-wear jean in a similar weight fabric? Try The M4 xx46.           ... Read more

Unique Fade From xx146

Our Bespoke Specialist, Ben, bought these jeans raw. They're made from xx146, which is a 13oz. green cast denim. After 2.5 years of wear, here's how they've faded. A unique fade is worth the wait. ... Read more


We were all very excited when this denim arrived at 15 Mercer. It's the first time in 3x1's history that we've carried a Zimbabwe cotton selvedge denim. Zimbabwe cotton is regarded as the best cotton to weave into denim. The cotton is harvested in a near-perfect climate, allowing it to produce some of the longest and strongest staples. For those of you who are unaware, the term "staple" is used to indicate the length of fiber that requires spinning and twisting in the manufacturing of yarn. So, a longer and stronger staple will produce a better quality denim. This beautiful, 15oz. red caste denim has a softer hand than you would expect, given it's heavier weight. It has an irregular weft, which gives it a slubby texture. This slubby texture is commonly found in denim produced on vintage shuttle looms, a denim-making process that is virtually nonexistent these days. Typically, loose fibers protruding on the surface of a denim are "singed" to remove them. xx485 is not singed, resulting in a slightly hairy surface that allow the denim to fade in a very unique way. xx485 is available now at our Custom and Bespoke levels. Click to book an appointment with one of our Bespoke Specialists.     ... Read more

Scott’s Favorite: XX60

It's pretty difficult for any of us at 3x1 to choose a favorite denim. I assumed that choice would be even more difficult for our founder, Scott, whose entire career has centered around denim. During one of my first meetings with him, I was surprised to learn that he does have a favorite out of the hundreds (possibly thousands) of headers and rolls that have come across his desk.   XX60 from Kurabo. It is a 13oz khaki weft with a green caste and just the right amount of starch to give it a crisp initial feel. It has been used in every aspect of the business from RTW and washes to Custom and Bespoke. I think it's safe to say that we will always have it available in the store. If you come in during the week, you'll probably catch Scott walking around in a 2 year old pair that have aged beautifully.   -Ben, 3x1 Bespoke Specialist Shop our M3 XX60       ... Read more

Brothers From Amhot | XX399 & XX400

Sometimes two fabrics appear to be the same, and the only way to tell the difference is in the subtle details. This holds true for our featured "brothers" today. Although they look like twins, each fabic has it's own unique personality. Coming to us from Amhot, one of our favorite Japanese mills, they are both 13oz. grey casts with a khaki weft. XX399 (pictured lower right) has a more irregular weft, which creates a slubby texture and rougher hand. X400 (pictured lower left) has a smoother, more consistent weft yarn making it softer to the touch. But the most obvious way to tell them apart is by the selvedge line. XX399 has a simple, single bleached line, while XX400 has a very bold green and purple line. Because of this, XX400 has become known as "Joker." They are both currently available through our Custom and Bespoke services.   -Ben, 3x1 Bespoke Specialist       ... Read more

XX336, Our softest denim yet

If you live in New York, you know the past week has been beyond brutal. We've seen everything from "ice pellets" to the dreaded "wintery mix". When your city has been transformed into a frozen tundra, changing from sweatpants and going outside is just about the worst thing ever. The perfect remedy? XX336, 100% Supima Cotton Brushed Back Selvedge (AKA jeans that feel like sweatpants). By brushing the back side of the denim, you have a peached feel similar to a loop terry. Taking it one step further, we've chosen to use Supima cotton, which is known both for it's strength and it's softness.  Supima is an ELS cotton (Extra Long Staple) and 100% American Pima cotton, and has been grown in the states since 1910.  This is the ideal denim for anyone looking for the most luxurious and comfortable jean made.  At only 9oz, it's the perfect lightweight denim for Spring and Summer (We promise, it's coming).  Top it off with the double yarn, red selvedge identification and you've got yet another wardrobe staple.  Want a pair for your own? XX336 is exclusive to our custom and bespoke levels. Email to setup an appointment!  ... Read more

XX363 | Kuroki | Japan

We can always count on Japan to produce some of the most innovative denim around. We're LOVING this double-faced denim from Kuroki mills.  It features one side, dark indigo and one side, muted stripe pattern. If you're looking for something a little warmer for winter, this is a fantastic option.  We're producing a limited run of ready to wear jeans in this denim. They're moving their way through our 15 Mercer factory now and will be available to purchase after January 6th. As always, this denim can be customized to perfection in your Custom or Bespoke fit. Shoot us an email at with any questions! ... Read more

Fall Denim

fall kaihara selvedge denim

Check out our four latest fabrics fresh from Kaihara Mills in Japan! We are loving the earthy tones of XX339 and XX338 to prepare for the new season. Both are 100% cotton and on the heavier side with 13.5oz. XX337 is a Neppy Selvedge with a unique speckled texture. One of our softest fabrics yet is XX336 which is a brush back supima cotton at 9oz in weight.  Email to have a pair made in your fit! Haven't taken the Bespoke plunge yet? Learn more at . XX339 | KAIHARA | 13.5oz Light Brown Selvedge w/ Khaki Fill XX338 | KAIHARA | 13.5oz  Forest Green Selvedge w/ Khaki Fill XX337 | KAIHARA | 13oz Neppy Selvedge w/ Navy Weft Yarn ‚Äč XX336 | KAIHARA |  9oz  Supima Cotton Selvedge w/ Brushed Back   ... Read more

White Oak

Cone Mills’ White Oak Plant, America's oldest working denim mill, has been around for so long that it has even outlived the tree it was named after. Based in Greensboro, NC, Cone Mills has been continuously producing denim since 1905 and still uses the same American Draper X3 fly shuttle looms from the 1940's. The machines sit on the original, turn of the century wood floors which create a "rhythm and motion" completely unique to their fabric. Many of the denim experts have been operating the same looms for over 50 years!   The White Oak Weave Room is 904 feet long by 180 feet wide, (about four acres in size), and is the largest single weave room in the world. Overhead is the roof, which forms one vast skylight, built with saw-tooth construction. The vertical sides of the teeth all face due North and are formed of ribbed glass, which affords the most perfect light to every section of the room. In the early 1900's this room contained 2,000 shuttle looms.Today there are only 31 shuttle looms in production, and Cone Mills White Oak Plant is still considered to be one of the largest selvedge denim weavers in the world.   We're obviously HUGE fans of Cone Mills here at 3x1. We love the idea of jeans made in New York City using denim made in North Carolina. Come by 15 Mercer at any time to check out our large selection of Cone Mills denim or grill our Denim Specialists on Cone Mills trivia :)     ... Read more

Italian Silk Denim

Our very first silk denim has arrived! Hailing from 'Blue Sevedge' (Italy), this grey colored denim is 75% cotton and 25% silk!   Incredibly light weight at 9.5 oz, this denim is both strong and soft, especially with repeated wear. Note the blue and black solid selvedge edge and the shiny silk weft yarns on the backside. BSilespoke jeans feel super luxe with a little bit of silk. ... Read more

The Perfect Black Denim

We're always talking about fabric XX133 - the perfect black denim. A 13oz fabric from Kaihara, Japan, its beyond popular with our beloved Denim Nerds. It also happens to be one of Scott's favorites (which says a lot considering he's seen more than a few denims in his day). Because XX133 is resin-coated, it has a slight sheen that makes for a crisp, polished look. What separates this black denim from the rest? As the jeans are worn and broken in, the dye chips off in the same manner as a normal blue jean - rare for black denim. Check out the pictures above to see a beautiful example. Want to break in a pair for yourself? Get your own pair here.      ... Read more

XX295 | Blue Selvadge | Italy

Due to chemistry, indigo is going to chip off on cotton.  Indigo falling makes worn jeans look beautiful.  Of course, we've recongnized there's a downside; we don't have any white leather seating at 15 Mercer.  For customers worried about indigo transfer, we now have an answer, XX295.  XX295 comes from Italy and is chemicaly treated on the roll, so indigo is less likely to transfer onto your favorite items.  We've tested it for the last 2 months and it works.  Molto bene! ... Read more

Denim 101: XX

At 3x1, all 310 of our fabrics are assigned an XX number (XX1 - XX310).  For example, XX143 is a fabric from Kurabo, Japan with khaki weft.  Today, XX stands for raw, unwashed denim. It has a rough, stiff feel compared to denim that has been washed or distressed.  3x1 and Denim Heads around the world love raw denim because as it's worn, the indigo dye begins to chip off, leaving behind creases and fademarks unique to the body. The end result is a jean that is not only perfectly molded to your body but also gives little clues about your lifestyle. For example, a well-worn jean might have marks from carrying your iPhone in your back pocket or fading on the seat from your new CitiBike membership. Want to start breaking in your own pair? Try out our M3 in XX60!  ... Read more

3×1 Gets Technical

Every time a pair of 3x1 jeans are born, before the fabric is even cut, a QR code is created. The QR code is printed onto a piece of fabric and inextricably linked to the jeans. As the denim is cut, sewn, and finished, the QR code can be scanned at any time to check the stage of production. Even better, once the jeans have been completed, the code is sewn into the waistband.  If you're wearing a pair of 3x1's right now (shame on you if you're not!), check the waistband for the QR code and scan it with your smartphone. You'll find everything you need to know about a 3x1 jean including care instuctions and the concept behind the brand.  Wearing custom or bespoke jeans?  You'll see that the jeans are assigned to you and you only. You can also find information like the type of fabric used as well as the mill it originated from. If anyone ever asks you about your 3x1's, just scan away! ... Read more

Caring for your 3×1’s

Whether you're a Purist who cringes at the sight of a washing machine or a Germaphobe who doesn't go a day without washing, here's the proper way to treat your beloved 3x1's..    THE DENIM PURIST... Most denim purists simply won’t wash unless literally forced to. Their jeans might be found stuffed in a freezer for a couple days, or sprayed with Febreeze from time to time, or air dried outside; either way it’s as close as their jeans will ever come to being ‘cleaned’. DENIM OBSESSED... After a minimum of 4+ months of constant wear (or longer if you’re jeans aren’t too dirty), turn your jeans inside out and soak for 30-45 minutes with a premixed combination of water and 3x1’s Denim Solution or castile soap (Approximately 30:1 ratio). Rinse thoroughly (by hand) with fresh water - make sure the soap residue is gone. Lay the garment flat, cover with a clean, dry towel, then roll up the jean + towel to absorb any remaining surface water - leave for 15 minutes. Unroll towel, and hang dry overnight (or until completely dry). DENIM ENTHUSIAST... After a minimum of 30 days of constant wear, turn your jeans inside out and soak for 60 minutes with a premixed combination of water and 3x1’s Denim Solution or castile soap (approximately 30:1 ratio). Don’t agitate unless you’re  needing to remove specific stains - simply soak, then remove and rinse thoroughly with fresh water. Wring excess water from rinsed jean, making sure any/all soap residue is gone. Hang dry in a shower or tub to ensure remaining water drains overnight (or until completely dry). THE MACHINIST... Try to go as long as you can without washing, but when you’ve reached that point, it’s time to wash. Pre-mix the suggested amount of 3x1 Denim Solution (given the load size) in water while using your machine’s ‘DELICATE’ cycle. Let the machine cycle through to completion, DO NOT use an extra spin cycle. Gently shake out your jean and hang dry overnight (or until completely dry) if possible. If you insist on machine drying, we advise against it unless it’s a stretch denim product, but if you absolutely have to - let them hang dry first and then touch-up in the dryer briefly, on low/medium heat, to de-wrinkle (approximately 10 minutes).   ... Read more

Spotlight on Kurabo

Kurabo Mills is where it all began. Think Denim Mecca. Founded over a century ago, its the official birthplace of Japanese denim. While Kurabo is known for being one of the oldest manufacturer of Japanese textiles, their innovation today still plays a huge role in advancing the modern world of denim.  Their spinning, dyeing and processing technologies have been integral to modern denim development. They were also one of the first mills to specialize in natural indigo denim. Want to get your hands on some Kurabo selvedge? We currently carry over 40 different fabrics from Kurabo alone. Fabric xx223 below is one of our favorites because its made with 22% linen for a truly unique texture. Not ready to take the Bespoke plunge? Ease into it with our ready to wear M4 fit in Kurabo's xx70 denim. Warning: you might get hooked!   ... Read more

Blue Crush

Exciting news! 3x1 recently started working with one of the finest mills in Italy called Blue Selvage. Made with a blend of linen and cotton, we’re obsessed with their lightweight fabric for summer. Our absolute favorite is a 9.9 oz denim (photo above!) with an exaggerated broken twill that appears like herringbone. It makes for the perfect casual yet sophisticated look for summer. We love this fabric in an M5 fit with gunmetal hardware. Feel like ditching your heavier denim for linen luxury? Learn about our custom and bespoke options at Or just cut right to the chase and make an appointment at       ... Read more